Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Montreal 2012 {Vendredi: Vieux Montreal}

{Friday: Old Montreal}

We were really excited for Friday, because we had plans to go down to Old Montreal. It's like going to Europe, only with a much cheaper, two-hour flight! We bought a Frommer's guidebook before we left, and it had some great walking tours in it. So unlike our Thursday odyssey, we knew exactly where we were going and exactly how long it would take to get there. :)


On Dort's recommendation, we took the metro to the Place d'Armes station and walked up a couple of blocks to the actual Place d'Armes.


We stood in the middle of the square and read through each of the building descriptions in the guidebook.

New York Life Building
Montreal's first "skyscraper" at a towering 8 stories
&
Aldred Building
Art deco style modeled after the Empire State Building

Saint Sulpice Seminary
Built in 1684


But the "main attraction" of Place d'Armes is the Notre Dame Basilica. This was something we were really excited to see! (Fun Fact: In addition to its historical and religious significance, it is also where Celine Dion got married in her seven pound tiara.)



There was a picture of the inside in our guidebook, but it was hard to imagine what it would be like to see it in person. We paid our $5 entry fee, and lo and behold...it doesn't even look real in person! Amazing! I think the pictures speak for themselves.







(There were so many people inside that it was hard to get a good floor-to-ceiling shot without having anyone in it. But the little blue person in the middle of that last picture belongs to me!)

Behind the main basilica, there is also a smaller chapel called Sacré-Coeur (Sacred Heart). It burned once, but it was rebuilt and is done almost entirely in amazingly-carved wood.



It was an unbelievably impressive first stop on our walking tour! Sorry, other churches -- sort of hard to top this one. :)


We headed back out of the church and walked down Rue Notre Dame passing several other landmarks along the way. Of particular interest to the Legal Eagle were several court buildings, new and old.

Old Courthouse

City Hall

Chateau Ramezay
Built in 1705

Then the tour took us down a little side street to the cobblestoned Rue St. Paul. We passed another of the oldest buildings in the city (a private home built in 1725) and a little restaurant in which there is apparently a display of parrots!



At the end of the side street, we got to the Bon Secours Chapel. Since this is next to the old port, this was the sailors' church. Interesting choice of lighting -- crystal chandeliers and little wooden boats carrying candles!




Side note: In the Notre Dame Basilica, it had been very clear from the sign outside (and the multitude of camera flashes inside) that photography was a-okay. But I held off in this one until I could find something that said it was or wasn't. Not only do they allow you to take pictures...


...they want you to upload them on Facebook! We got a good laugh out of that and the guy working in the gift shop who was in full period costume and managing their Facebook page. Bon Secours is hip, yall!

We left the chapel and kept walking up Rue St. Paul, where there are lots of little shops and hotels. We also passed the Bonsecours Market, although we didn't go in.


About halfway down the street, we arrived at our lunch destination -- the gardens at the Hotel Nelson!


We got a great table under a tree in the courtyard (watch out for bird "business", though -- sorry Andrew!), and the place was full of people and live music. We enjoyed renditions of "Hey Jude" and "Tequila" among a random selection of others. :)



For lunch, we both had crepes, which were described on the menu as "incomparable". We don't eat too many crepes, so I guess that was true for us at least! Mine was a tomato batter with chicken, pesto, and cheeses, and Andrew's was a sweet batter with pork, tzatziki, and veggies.


We may also have split a pitcher of delicious white wine sangria. Thanks to our waiter for the picture and for his very conversational English!



After lunch, we continued down the street to scope out a Christmas ornament souvenir and ended up with a beaver dressed as a Royal Canadian Mountie. :)



One of the guidebook stops was the old Customs House, but there was a movie (or something) filming out front that prevented us from even crossing the street, much less going up to it.


A policeman breaking out the window of an Xterra with his baton to retrieve a set of keys...sure to be a real blockbuster!

Next, we turned to head down to the riverfront area, which is the Old Port of Montreal. Again, we passed plenty of history along the way.

Hospital of the Grey Nuns



We sat for a minute by the water and just enjoyed the breeze! By that time, it was getting close to 4 (discovery: the camera tells time!), so we decided to walk along the river and head back to the metro.

Bota Bota Spa on the Water
(Their mani/pedi salon is also a cocktail lounge!)

 Modular Housing from Expo, the 1967 World's Fair


Thanks to the guidebook, we got to see so many things in Old Montreal -- but in a much more manageable area/distance than the previous day. We learned a lot too, but it was at our own pace and interest level. It was a great way to spend a day, and the walking tour was probably worth the price of the whole book!


We went back to Dort's house to clean up a little and go out for dinner. She wanted to take us to a place she had been to with her friends, but after several trips around a Wal-Mart ("Big Ben, House of Parliament"), we just couldn't find it. When we were approaching the deserted Hippodrome (horse track), we knew we were not quite in the right place.


It turns out that the restaurant had been where she thought it was, but it had recently closed. The sign was covered up by its replacement's banner. So instead, we went to the nearby Baton Rouge restaurant and enjoyed dinner and drinks. Great day!

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Montreal 2012 {Jeudi: Marche, marche, marche!}

{Thursday: Walking, walking, walking!}

On Thursday morning, we got Dort to drop us off at the De La Savane metro station, which would be our "home" station during the visit, so we could buy our 3-day metro passes (unlimited and more than paid for themselves) and hop a train to the Rosemont station across town.




Now...we had a few unrelated places we wanted to see that day, but we figured we'd have no problem with free rein of the bus/metro system and our trusty map. Places always look so close together on a map, don't they?


Needless to say, when we made a long walk over a highway bridge straight out of the metro station, it was an indication that we were going to trek. And did I mention that Montreal was experiencing an uncharacteristic heat wave?


Fortunately though, we were excited, motivated, and wearing comfortable shoes. :) So on to Rue St. Viateur we went!

Many blocks later...

A co-worker had told me that a "must-do" on our trip was a visit to the original St. Viateur Bagels location. It has been frequented by lots of famous faces during its 50+ year history, and many of them are pictured on the walls (alongside lots of regular folks too).


CHAUD
(a.k.a. "Hot Bagels Now")


They have a giant, open oven right there behind the cash register, and they're constantly pulling out fresh sesame bagels (their signature) and tossing them over into the bin for purchase. Doesn't get much fresher than that!


Andrew went with the classic sesame (which he said was "not just warm but HOT"), and I had a (cool but still delicious) cinnamon raisin. It's not really a cafe or anything, so we just ate them there in the corner. It was worth the walk!



After we carbo-loaded on bagels, we set out on what we (again) thought would be a short-ish walk over to the actual Mount Royal, the big hill mountain in the middle of town. Let's just say it took a little longer than we thought it would. Then again, when the temperature is pushing 90, everything feels like it takes longer than it should! Andrew initially wanted to climb up to the top, but I kindly suggested that maybe we better not. ;)

Instead, we decided to head directly to Mount Royal Cemetery, which was actually on our itinerary. It was still at the top of the hill, but there was a direct route. Unfortunately, our slight misreading of the map sent us on more of a hiking detour, but the scenery was so nice that it was (pretty) hard to complain!


We made a brief stop in the Jewish area of the cemetery -- in part because we thought it was connected to the main cemetery (it wasn't) and in part because it was so pretty!


We kept going a little way up the hill and got to the main gate, which was being restored.

Cimetière Mont-Royal

Our final planned stop was the Catholic cemetery where Andrew's Grandpa Joe is buried, but we had to make it all the way through Mount Royal Cemetery to get there. I will just say this: it is expansive.


But we made it! We walked alll the way down Chemin Remembrance, past this guy:


and finally found ourselves at Notre-Dame-Des-Neiges Cemetery.


(As a Southern girl, I have to say that I loved their monogram! I hope that's appropriate.)

Before we left Atlanta, Andrew used their online database to look up exactly where Grandpa Joe was, so we were able to go straight to him. Sort of a somber stop, but we were glad we went.


At this point, we had walked upwards of 4-5 miles in the scorching sun, and I should also add that we were without phones or watches (smart!) and had absolutely no idea what time it was. However, our stomachs told us loud and clear that it was more than half past lunchtime. So we made the smartest move of the day and went to the nearest bus stop that would take us to food and the land of the living: downtown!


Our afternoon plan was to head to Rue St. Catherine, which our guidebook told us was the "hub" for shopping and sightseeing. We wanted a truly authentic Canadian lunch, so obviously we had:


Ha. Actually, I believe we stopped at the first place on Rue St. Catherine that had food and seating in the shade. (No AC, but who's being choosy at this point.)


Hmm...are those sunburns?

After refueling, we headed back out onto the busy street to check out all the shops. A lot were the same as what we have here (H&M, Forever 21, American Eagle, etc.), but there were also plenty of Canadian originals.



Inside Ogilvy (So pretty! And so much Longchamp!)

Finally, we headed a few blocks over to a more wide-open space nearby.



Cathédrale Marie Reine-du-Monde

 Sun Life Building

 Fairmont Queen Elizabeth (Where John & Yoko staged their bed-in.)

We narrowly missed walking into Montreal Fashion Week shows on our way down to Place Ville Marie, which is an underground shopping center!
 

PVM is also connected to the Eaton Centre mall near McGill University, so we walked through there too. Before heading back to the metro, we stopped for one of Andrew's favorite treats -- a spirel! Super-dense soft serve swirled with caramel....yum!


A short ride on the orange line later, we were back to De La Savane and more than ready to rest. We've tried to make a rough estimate of the total distance we walked that day, but it's just safer to say it was long. Thanks to Dort for making us dinner so that we only had to walk from the den to the dining room to get it!